Elta de Reyes - Oaxaca Part III

These images are in no particular order because this blog has a very awkward upload feature. While in Villa de Etla, we asked a pharmacist if he was familiar with the filiming of Nacho Libre. Of course, he was. He advised that the small church that served as the external shots for the Monastary, was about 2 miles outside of town. As we made our way toward Etla de Reyes (all the towns of the area are calle "Etla" which made it difficult to find our Nacholand), we could see the little church perched on a barren hill. This little church is a modest 16th century building. Since the filming of Nacho the locals have restored the building and added a hideous driveway as well as a circular cement slab that resembles a helicopter pad.


The three vallies of Oaxaca, while fertile, are very dry and extremely hot as you can tell by the cactus and barren landscape.

In it's starkness it is still very beautiful.

The agave plants used to make the local alcohol of choice, Mescal, grow on the sides of the steep mountains along highway 190. Here they are growing on unusually flat terrain.

There are two ways to get to Oaxaca from Huatulco. The first is along Hwy 200 East and then North on the 190. It's a somewhat triangular route but the highways is quite wide and well maintained. I recommend travelling on a Saturday. The other way is the absolutely gorgeous and dramatic Hwy 175. It twists, and twists and twists it's tiny little strip of asphalt high up into the Sierra Madres. DO NOT attempt this if you are at all prone to car sickness. Although the 175 route is more direct, it is only about 1 hour faster given the twisy twiny curves and the extreme grades. The locals say either way takes exactly the same amount of time. A safe plan is to assume the drive (not including stops) will take 6.0 hours.

Hertz in Tongalunda were amazing. We heard nasty stories about car rental companies gouging their patrons for scratches and dents that pre-existed the rental. Hertz was outstanding and the rental experience was a pleasure $3,300 pesos for five days. Thanks to Kevin at Hertz Tongalunda!!!

Oaxaca Part II - Villa de Etla

Villa de Etla is about a 30 minute drive on highway 190 North of Oaxaca. Do not go on the toll freeway to Mexico City. This town is where the interior and some exterior scenes from Nacho Libre were filmed.

This shot is the courtyard of the convent at the main church.

Market day is Wednesdays. We missed it by two days but a small market runs on the other days. This photo is of Randy coming down the steps from the market. If you are a Nacho Libre fan you will remember Nacho coming down these steps in is new white boots to the song "Bubble Gum for Me".

Just outside the market these small three wheelers serve as local taxis. They are very popular in the Oaxaca area.

Inside the market, on regular days there are fruit and vegetable stands, carnicerias, lecherias (selling the famous and delicious Oaxaca string cheese). I am at a honey, chocolate and cheese stand here (whatever that is in Spanish). The Oaxacan chocolate is said to have hypnotized the Spaniards but I think they might have just had a sugar overload. The Oaxacan chocolate, used primarily in making hot chocolate and moles is extremeley sweet and tastes slightly burned. Frankly, I don't get it. But they sell the sugary chocolate in beautifully hand molded balls, sticks and blocks.

This pup is looking for handouts from the polleria. We later saw him begging at the carniceria. He is of a healthy weight so someone is yielding to those big brown eyes.

....... to be continued in Part III

Nacho Libre Land - Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca - Part 1

Last week we drove for 6.5 hours on highway 190 to Oaxaca. There are two routes; a wider, better highway east along the coast which veers north just before Salina Cruz, and, the other (the 175) which is a twisty, steep smaller highway that is a north/south route. The latter is more direct and more beautiful but a very technical drive. Highway 175 is much shorter but because of its crazy turns and steep grades only saves about 45 minutes. Either way you slice it, it's about about a 5.5 to 6.5 hour drive from Huatulco.

We rented a car from Hertz in Bahia Tongolunda about 2.5 km from Marina Chahue. The economy c car that I booked was not available so they gave us a jeep for the same cost. We were warned that Mexican car rental companies (regardless of the brand) will gouge you when you return the vehicle for dents, chips and scratches. We took photos of the entire vehicle before we left. In the end, we had no problem and the entire cost for five days was about $3,300 pesos.

The drive through Salina Cruz and then North was a long hot drive..... the "opposite of fun" as a friend would say.

The City of Oaxaca, also know as Oaxaca Juarez, reminds me of small cities in Spain like San Sabastian. Oaxaca is one of the oldest cities in Mexico. Other than the corn on the cob on a stick, the mescal and the tamale vendors, you would think you were in Europe.

Traffic is usually congested because of the old narrow streets. Thank goodness, that each street is one way. Fortunately, most buildings were built with ample courtyards which now serve as parking garages. Most hotels, even 3 stars, have free parking. It's best to park your car and walk around the city.

We stayed at the Francia Hotel, and old colonial building, on 20 Noviembre Street which is about 2 blocks from the Zocolo (the plaza, piazza, town square). The rate was $500 pesos per night which worked out to be about $34 US Dollars.

Oddly enough, there aren't many bars in Oaxaca. There are plenty of restaurants and the odd club but not many places where you can walk in and have a drink. Of course, Randy found a great bar, La Farola, about a block down the street from Francia Hotel.

Our first excursion was to Monte Alban, an ancient Zapotec ruin that was constructed anywhere from 700 BC to 500 BC. I can go on and on about this civilization; their astronomy, anatomy, medicine, dentistry ..... check it out on the Internet.

Byte the way, the last scene of Nacho Libre was filmed at these ruins.

........ to be continued.

Nacho Libre Land - The City of Oaxaca de Juarez

Poolside, La Crucecita - Huatulco

Randy on the beach in front of the Beach Club in Bahia Santa Cruz.

Huatulco Days

This is the view (downward) from one of the lots for sale in the bay; Randy and I call it "our lot". Someone has set up a massive development with street lights, electricity, water ... everything.

Here I am on "our lot". In front of me is the ocean and behind, the marina

Another view from our lot. You can see it's an arid climate here in Huatulco...but that doesn't mean it isn't humid. At 6 pm at night we are at 85% humidity and 75 degrees.

This is a shot of Marina Chahue where we are moored until we blast off for El Salvador. Our new neighbours Bill and Jean from "Mita KuuLuu" have written and produced a fabulous guide to El Salvador from the Bahia del Sol perspective. They can be found at SVmitakuuluu.blogspot.com

This is Maggie, the 18 year old boat cat from Effie who I cared for while Mac and Alan toured Oaxaca. She is a gem and we lover her. We have two other boat cats in the marina; one who rules the docks and stalks pelicans and the other who stays on deck on her leash.

Tomorrow we are driving to Oaxaca. We are staying in the Francia Hotel for $500 pesos per night. We are going to drive up to Villa de Etna to see a 17th Century monastery where part of Nacho Libre was formed. It's the only way Randy will take in any culture.

Lost Elvis Found Huatulco - 200 miles north of Guatemala

Thea had a nice visit with Dana in Phoenix on the way to Mexico. Although too short, Dana and I did manage to squeeze in a basketball game, a hike on Pinnacle Peak and a BBQ with some of Dana's clients. Next time ont he way back to Vancouver, I'll stay longer so I can get some shopping in.

From Phoenix I flew to Mexico City with US Airways and then to Huatulco on Mexicana. US Airways flies to Mexico City every day at 11 am from Phoenix. Mexicana flies to Huatulco three times a day for less than $80 one way.









Marina Chahue is a new marina which is still under development to accommodate the mega yachts. The construction becomes very apparent in the morning when the dump trucks release load after load of gravel to build the new breakwater. The swell is bad here. I've had more comfortable anchorages but there is no where else to shore up before the treacherous Tehuanapec (aka the "Pecker") crossing. There was a huge weather window starting yesterday so most of the boats are heading through the Pecker to El Salvador toda. There are about two or three of us left waiting to go through.

Effie from Barra (whereseffie.blogspot.com ) is back with us. Mac and Alan came in from Acapulco on Monday. I am cat-sitting Maggie while Mac and Alan visit Oaxaca for four days.

Here in Huatulco, Arcadio was instrumental in rebuilding Lost Elvis' alternator and lift can. He also serviced the transmission and added new filters and oil. Those of you who don't think BOAT doesn't mean "Break Out Another Thousand"; beware! However, diesel mechanical services here are about 1/3 of the price of Puerto Vallarta.

La Cruzecita is the closest town to the marina. It is clean, paved and brightly coloured. The gay bars are denoted by the Corona paint job, the curtains hanging at the door and over the windows and, as our friend, Douglas found out, by the fact that the patrons bought him beer all night.

It has a new "Super Che" which is like a mini Mega Commercial. It's about a 30 peso cab ride from the marina.



Douglas, aka Santa Claus, is on a 51' Fermosa ferro-cement schooner "Endurance". His wife Suzie and he are professional fisherman in the Kenai Alaska fishery. When he's not fishing, he's in Huatulco. He is getting ready to get his boat ready for a 5 day haul to Puerto Vallarta where he will put the boat in dry dock until the end of the next fishing season.






This is the 41' Canela crewed by three crazy Brazilians from the township of Canela. You can follow their four year round the world trip at www.destinocanela.com

They just left this morning to cross the Tehuanapec. We met these guys in Zihuatanejo and we hope to catch them in El Salvador. Be warned "don't leave your women, the Brazilian boys will take them".

Hasta La Proxima Vancouver!

Today is my last day in Vancouver for a while. Tomorrow I fly to Phoenix. The mood is still gloomy with a hint of optimism. The 70% discounts offered by most retailers lures people into the stores and restaurants so it looks somewhat busy. Word on the street is that the worst will be over by May or June and that the US may even see a stable economy by August or September.

Congratulations to Marcia on her new hair salon and her property development in Brazil, to Sabrina on her huge property management deal and to Tammy on her new business "Love on a Leash" and "Ask A Woman Seminar Series" at the Four Seasons. These are some of my dear friends who have not succumbed to the fear mongers.

Vancouver had its third consecutive harsh winter. The snow in the higher elevations (1800 ft above sea level) is starting to melt as the temperatures begin to hit 50F.

During the cold spells I hung out at my favourite restaurants like, Rodney's Oyster Bar, Glowbal (John is one of my favourite chefs), various sushi bars, the Wedgewood Hotel Lounge, Italian Kitchen, the Loden, Hy's and Yew at the Four Seasons.

After a weekend with my girlfriend Dana in Phoenix (including a Suns game and some gorgeous hiking), I will fly to Mexico City via US Airways and then Mexicana to Huatulco. The Mexicana flight from Mexico City to Huatulco goes three times a day and is only $42!

So far, the plan is that by early March we expect to be in El Salvador and Panama by the first week of April.

If Randy gets recalled, we'll have to devise "Plan B".

The optimism in Vancouver, and possibly the spring weather, seem to be lighting the fires of some of my business associates. It looks like I might have to return to Vancouver in mid-March to close an acquisition and attend to some other transactions.